Do-it-yourself, or better known as DIY is so popular nowadays.
Seems like everyone can be an expert in doing all the repairing jobs and so on.
Why is that being done? Is it to save money? Maybe.. who knows?
However, just imagine is it practical to do it yourself nowadays?
I don’t think so.

Based on the lifestyle that we are living right now, no matter where is your location, it is basically impossible to do all the maintenance by yourself.
Wouldn’t it be better to have someone to do all the wiring or plumbing job to someone that is commited in doing it?

And you can use the time you would have wasted to do something else that you would enjoy with your family members.

Besides, you could have saved the money that you’re going to spend on the tools for other purpose. Maybe for your next family vacation to a beautiful foreign country?

So, if you need any handyman service and you happen to be in Singapore, don’t hesitate to give us a call at 63271030. We will be pleased to serve you.


Tips on How to Reglaze a Bath Tub By Claire Bowes

Bathtub not looking as good as it should? Are you stuck with one of those outdated colors of the 1970’s? With a few simple preparations and a lot of patience, you can learn how to reglaze a bathtub and save yourself the hassle of buying and installing a new tub.

 Of course, you’ll want to make sure that you work safely. Since refinishing a bathtub involves chemicals, some of which are toxic, make sure that you ventilate the area well before beginning. Also, protect yourself with a ventilator, safety goggles and gloves. Once protected, gather your supplies and get going!

Give your tub a cursory cleaning and remove any loose caulking and gaskets. Most bathtub refinishing kits come with several chemicals. The first two are chemical cleaning solutions that will remove soaps and oils from the surface of the tub and prepare it for the primer. Most kits require you to clean the tub with the first solution, scrubbing the tub with sandpaper, usually 220 or 240 grit.

Once the tub is thoroughly scrubbed, rinse away any residue. The second cleaning solution is applied next, usually with a specially designed cleaning pad that also scores, or roughs, the surface of the tub. This second step removes any remaining oil or soap and also provides “grab” for the primer. Rinse the tub again and dry with an old towel or paper towels.

The third solution in the kit is a primer reducer, a solvent that removes any remaining residue and prepares the surface for the primer. Carefully apply the reducer with paper towels. After this, repair any damage to the tub’s surface and drain area with putty and allow to dry. After about 30 minutes, sand the repaired areas smooth with a fine grit sandpaper, clean with the primer reducer and dry. It is time to mask the area around the bathtub that will not be refinished.

Carefully apply tape and paper to the areas around the tub, burnishing any tape with your fingernail or a credit card to assure a good seal. Next, you’ll apply the base coat to the tub. Remember to wear your respirator for this part of the process, and make sure that your area is properly ventilated.

Following the manufacturer’s directions, mix the primer’s components exactly and use a spray gun to apply to the bathtub. Allow the primer to dry for at least 30 minutes before applying the top coat. Mix the paint for the topcoat following manufacturer’s instructions. Apply the topcoat using the spray gun with even strokes. This topcoat will take about 48-72 hours to completely cure.

Reglazing your bathtub can be a cost effective way to dramatically update your bathroom! Claire Bowes is a successful Webmaster and publisher of Bath Tubs & Bathing. Claire provides more information on her site about Refinishing a Bath Tub that you can research at home.

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Short cleaning tips

March 6, 2006

Check out these amazing cleaning tips! I bet you’ve never heard some of these before! Paint on carpet, Ink stains, Crayon on walls, etc.

ANT REPELLANT: To keep ants out of the house, find where the ants are entering the house and sprinkle a “barrier” of cinnamon or any type of ground pepper to block their way. The spices are too hot for the ants to cross.

BATHROOM ODORS: Place a shallow dish of baking soda behind the toilet to absorb bathroom odors.

CANDLE WAX: To remove wax from carpeting you should first scrape away any excess. Then, using a warm iron and a clean cloth or even a paper bag simply place the iron on top of the cloth over the wax and as you iron it will adhere to the cloth instead of the carpet. Continue moving the cloth around as you pick up the wax so you are always using a clean section of cloth. If a little grease stain remains sprinkle on baking soda and let sit overnight before vacuuming which will remove the grease residue and deodorize at the same time! If colored wax leaves a stain, blot with spot remover or carpet cleaner, following label directions.

CHIMNEY: To keep your chimney clean, throw a handful of salt on the fire. CHROME: To remove rust from chrome, wipe it with aluminum foil dipped in Coke. To polish chrome, use a crumbled up piece of aluminum foil and rub!

CLOUDY DRINKING GLASSES: Soak them for an hour or longer in slightly warm (not boiled) white vinegar. Then use a nylon-net or plastic scrubbie to remove film. Still there? The damage must be etching (tiny scratches that occur in the dishwasher) and is permanent, sorry to say. To avoid this altogether, hand-wash your best glasses.

COFFEE GRINDER: Grind up a cup or so of rice in a coffee grinder to clean the grinder and sharpen its blades.

COPPER: To polish copper, rub an ample amount of catsup on the copper and let it stand for 5 minutes. Rinse off the catsup with hot water and dry to find an incredible shine.

CRAYON ON WALLS OR WASHABLE WALLPAPER: Spray with multipurpose lubricating oil. Then gently wipe, using a paper towel or clean white cloth. If mark is stubborn, sprinkle a little baking soda on a damp sponge and gently rub in a circular motion. If lubricants residue remains, dampen a sponge with a solution of one or two drops of mild dish-washing liquid to one cup water. Squeeze out sponge and gently rub in a circular motion. Rinse sponge; lightly moisten with water to go over area; dry with a clean cloth. Another method is to use a blow dryer. It heats the wax and wipes away instantly. If the color reamins behind, like red usually does, wet a cloth with bleach and wipe.

DEODORIZE: dishes, pans, cutting boards or utensils with those same pungent odors, simply add 1/4 cup of lemon juice to your dishwater.

FIREPLACE SOOT ODOR: To diminish and remove this odor, after you clean out the ashes, place a shallow pan of baking soda for a few hours or overnight in the fireplace.

FISH OR OTHER SPOILED FOOD ODOR: Place a bowl of white vinegar on the counter for a few hours. The odor will disappear for good.

FRESHEN A GARBAGE DISPOSAL: Sprinkle baking soda in it along with a few drops dish-washing liquid. Scrub with a brush (a new toilet brush works great), getting under the rubber gasket and all around the inside. Then turn on water and the disposal and flush thoroughly. For a fresh citrus scent, throw in a few cut-up lemons or limes and run them through, too, using lots of water.

FRESHEN LAUNDRY BASKET: Place a fabric softener sheet in the bottom of your laundry basket (remember to change it weekly.) You can also simply sprinkle some baking soda in the bottom of your basket and that will help absorb the odors as well.

FRESHEN LINEN CLOSET: In the linen closet place cotton balls that have been sprayed with your favorite scent. Once they are dry place them in corners and on the shelves.

INK STAINS: The best way I have found to get out ink stains is to put rubbing alcohol on the stain – it disappears! This must be done before washing. For ink on the wall, wipe with bleach and it will disappear.

KITTY LITTER: To keep cat litter fresh smelling, mix baby powder in with the litter.

MICROWAVE ODORS: Keep a cup of baking soda in the microwave between uses to keep potatoes from smelling like bacon or other unusual combinations! To clean baked-on food quickly, simply fill a measuring cup full of water and turn the microwave on for about 1-2 minute, until you see the water boiling. The moisture makes all the old food easily wipe off!

MOTHBALL SUBSTITUTE: Take your leftover soap slivers and put them in a vented plastic bag. You place the bag with seasonal clothes before packing them away. Not only will the scent prevent them from moth harm but also they’ll smell great when you pull them out.

PAINT ON CARPET: Spray with Windex® and wipe clean.

PERMENANT MARKER ON CARPET: Dab a washcloth soaked in rubbing alcohol onto the marker stain. Do not rub it – just blot it – rotating the cloth to a clean spot every time.

PET URINE ON CARPET: First, blot up what you can with paper towels. Mix one teaspoon mild dish-washing detergent in one cup warm water, dip a clean towel in the liquid and, working from outside in, dab at stain. Do not overwet. Rinse with fresh water and blot dry. Next, add on-third cup white vinegar with two-thirds cup water and dab on stain. Rinse with water; blot until dry. Once area is totally dry (after at least 24 hours), sprinkle entire carpet with baking soda or rug deodorizer. Vacuum after a few hours.

PHOTOS STUCK TOGETHER: With a hair dryer on low, slowly melt them apart.

ROACH PROBLEM: Combine equal parts boric acid (a powder sold in hardware stores and drugstores) and sugar, mix well. Sprinkle in crevices and, if building or remodeling, between walls before putting up plaster board. Put the powder in jar lids; place lids behind the fridge and under sinks. Caution: Keep mixture away from children and pets. If ingested in large quantities, or even in small amounts over several days, boric acid can be harmful.

SHOWER DOORS: I have clear glass shower doors. I have tried everything from CLR, Comet, to Clorox – you name it, I’ve tried it. Today I decided to try something different. I found a bottle of Resolve spot remover for carpet and fabric. I figured “Why not? I have tried everything else.” All I did was spray the Resolve on the shower and with no effort ran a dish sponge over it and rinsed and every bit of the soap scum came off.

SMELLY COOKING HANDS: Simply rub your hands over a stainless steel utensil under running water. This works especially well for the odor of garlic, onions or fish.

SMELLY SNEAKERS: Simply fill knee-high stockings with unused litter, tie the ends and tuck them in overnight for a quick refresh. Add baby powder, too! Another refresher for smelly sneakers is to simply take a few teaspoons of baking soda and put in the center of a cotton cloth. Tie the cloth and rubber band the edges securely creating a baking soda sachet, which you put in the shoes overnight as well. These sachets can be used over and over in any kind of shoe.

SOUR SPONGE: Soak the sponge in lemon juice and rinse it out. This will remove the odor for good but keep in mind that it is important to either dispose of, microwave, or run your sponge through your dishwasher regularly to keep bacteria from growing.

STAINS IN PLASTIC STORAGE CONTAINERS: Use a baking soda paste (baking soda and water) and rub into the stain. You can then rinse with vinegar (optional) and wash normally. Another method is to place container outside on a nice sunny day and the sun actually bleaches the stain out. To avoid stains in the first place, spray container with cooking spray before putting things in it that stain i.e. spaghetti sauce.

STICKERS, DECALS, AND GLUE: To remove them from furniture, glass, plastic, etc. saturate with vegetable oil and rub off.

TARNISHED SIVERWARE: Line a cake pan with aluminum foil. Fill with water and add 1 Tbls. of baking soda per 2 cups of water. Heat to 150 degrees. Lay silverware in pan, touching aluminum foil. Watch the stains disappear!

TRASH BAG IDEA: Save money on trash bags by reusing plastic grocery bags. Use them in all your trash cans. To keep them from slipping down, affix a plastic, self-adhesive hook to both sides of the inside of the trash can. Hang the shopping bag from the hooks.

WHITE HEAT MARKS AND WATER RINGS ON WOOD: If the wood has a good finish (don’t try on bare wood), mix equal parts of baking soda and regular white, non-gel toothpaste. Lightly dampen corner of a clean, soft white cloth with water and dip into the paste. With circular motion gently buff the marks for a few minutes. Wipe area clean, and buff to a shine. Follow with furniture polish. (If rings remain after buffing five minutes or so, they may have penetrated the wood; you might have to refinish the piece). If that doesn’t work, dip a cloth in vegetable oil, then in cigarette ashes, then rub it over the mark. Another method is to rub real mayonnaise onto the stain, allow to sit overnight, then wipe with a dry towel.
About the Author

Cecilia Sherrard is a full time dedicated Realtor in Northeast Ohio. With years of experience and knowledge, she has maintained a multi-million dollar producer status. Visit her website at you can also view her Real Estate tips at

From Soiled to Stunning: How to Clean Leather and Fabric Upholstered Sofas
By Vanessa Kirkland

No matter how durable or stain resistant the upholstery, your sofa is destined to receive an unfortunate spill every now and then. Even if your furniture enjoys only light use and the most pristine care, dust accumulates daily and leads to dingy fabric, dull leather, and diluted colors.
Follow these easy tips for cleaning even the most stubborn sofa stains, and you’ll protect your investment and maximize its beauty for years to come.

Cleaning fabric upholstery

Most common messes such as dirt, dust, and mud can be removed by shampooing or steam-cleaning the fabric.

1. First, vacuum the entire surface of the sofa to remove dry, loose dirt. Always complete this step before getting your upholstery wet–it will ensure a much more effective result.

2. Next, it’s time pre-treat the stain. Using a clean, white, very damp cloth, dab the stain to saturate it with water and loosen stubborn dirt particles.

3. Use your cleaning agent to spot-test the upholstery for colorfastness. You can use a commercial upholstery cleaner, or you can save a few dollars by making your own: In a large bowl, combine ½ teaspoon dish or laundry detergent with a quart of warm water. Using a mixer, combine the ingredients until they turn frothy and sudsy. You’ll use only the suds as the cleaning agent, so you might need to mix up additional batches for an adequate amount to saturate the entire stained area. To test, apply only the dry suds to a hidden part of your sofa’s upholstery and lightly scrub into the fabric with a cloth or soft-bristled brush. Allow the spot to dry. If the area hasn’t lightened or changed color (it should look cleaner, but not a different color), you can proceed to the next steps.

4. Steam clean the stain. If you don’t have your own steam cleaner, you can rent one from your local supermarket. Apply dry suds from your cleaning mixture to the stain. Using the brush attachment on the steam cleaner, firmly and thoroughly shampoo the stained area in even, circular strokes. Using a spatula, scrape off the suds, then blot the area with a clean, damp cloth to remove the suds from in between the fabric’s fibers. You may need to repeat this step once or twice more to completely remove the stain. Once it’s removed, you’ll likely want to steam clean the entire surface of your sofa to ensure that the fabric wears evenly.

5. Allow the upholstery to dry. It’s important that your sofa dries quickly and completely to prevent mildew buildup inside cushions and under upholstery surfaces. Open windows, use an oscillating fan, and turn on a dehumidifier to speed the drying process.

6. Apply a fabric protector. This step will help keep your upholstery stain-resistant and durable.

Cleaning leather upholstery

Most leather sofas are made with finished leather, which is dyed for color uniformity and treated with a clear top coat for maximum durability. Because of this process, many common household stains–especially dirt and mud–can be cleaned with warm water and a clean sponge or cloth. But for tough stains, or to give your leather sofa a thorough cleaning, follow these steps:

1. Vacuum the entire surface of the sofa to remove dry, loose dirt.

2. Using a real soap product formulated for leather, such as saddle soap, lightly apply to soiled areas in broad, circular strokes using a soft brush. Remove excess soap with a clean, dry, white cloth and allow the leather to dry thoroughly.

3. If the stain is still intact, try applying a specially-formulated leather stain remover. For extremely tough stains, other methods may work more effectively. For example, for small ink stains, rubbing a white pencil eraser over the spot often works nicely. For grease, sprinkle cornstarch over the stain and cover with a damp white cloth for six hours. Remove the cornstarch with a dry white cloth, and repeat the process as necessary.

4. Next, it’s important to condition the leather to keep it supple and resistant to cracks and fading. Make your own inexpensive leather conditioner by mixing two parts linseed oil and one part vinegar. Using a dry white cloth, work the mixture into the entire surface after cleaning and once a month to ensure the longevity of your leather furniture.

With a little consistent maintenance and only minimal cost, you can keep your sofa looking like new for as long as you plan to own it. Weekly dusting and vacuuming, monthly cleaning, and the immediate treatment of stains are the best ways to protect your investment.

About the Author

Vanessa Kirkland is freelance writer whose articles offer consumer advice and decorating tips for home furniture including
sofas, futons, and recliners.

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