How To Refinish A Vinyl Or Tile Floor Using Floor Finish by Lee Harris

The following procedure is for reapplying coats to an already finished floor or applying finish to a new floor. When finishing a new floor always follow the manufacturers recommendations for prepping the floor. You should always consult the flooring manufacturer on the types of finishes that are suited to your floor. When finishing any floor we recommend that you use a quality floor finish that is correctly matched to your flooring. Our online floor finishing procedures are the general guidelines for finishing a floor. These days floor finish has become the alternative to old fashioned waxes. Floor finish can give a floor a great long lasting shine without the problems of conventional waxes.

Procedure:

Make sure that your floor has been prepared for finishing. Clean the floor removing as much dirt and debris as possible. If the floor has more than 5 coats of finish we recommend stripping the floor first. Too many layers of finish can dull a floor. Over time floor finish can yellow in color, if you see any yellowing on the floor we also recommend that you strip the floor first.

After the floor has been prepared, vacuum or dust mop the floor to remove any dust. We recommend that you spray your dust mop with dust mop treatment to remove as much dust as possible. Make sure to remove anything stuck to the floor, anything that is on the floor when you finish it will become part of the floor finish and you will have to strip your floor and begin again.

Make sure that the floor are you are finishing does not and will not have traffic moving through it for at least 12 – 24 hours depending on the type of finish that your are applying (see floor finish manufacturers specifications for curing and drying time). Use warning signs to make sure the area where you are finishing is marked out so that everyone is aware of the area.

Finishing a floor requires the use of two mop buckets. One bucket will be used to keep the finish mop damp and the other will be used to apply the floor finish. Line the floor finish bucket with a clear trash can liner so that you can dispose of the finish easily after the job is complete.

Fill one mop bucket 1/2 way up with water and the lined mop bucket 1/4 full with floor finish. Dip your finish mop into the water bucket and wring until the mop is damp and water does not drip from the end. Next, dip the damp mop into the floor finish and wring until the finish mop does not drip.

The best way to finish floors is to divide the floor into sections to assure that an even amount of floor finish is applied everywhere. Begin applying the floor finish at the furthest corner from the entrance. Apply floor finish to the baseboard area first (a block applicator can be a great tool for this job) working away from the corner. Make sure the floor finish is going on to the floor in a thin even coat.

After you have applied floor finish to the baseboard move on to the open areas of the floor. Move the mop head in a figure eight motion overlapping mopping sections by about an inch.

After you have applied the finish evenly to the entire area, let the floor dry. The floor should look glossy with no raised areas or drip marks. Follow the floor finish manufacturers recommendations for drying time. Depending on the floor finish you may wish to apply more than one coat of floor finish, if so, let the floor dry in between coats. You may also want to buff the floor in between coats so that the second coat adheres better to the first coat.

To maintain the new look of the floor finish you can burnish with a burnishing floor pad, again see the manufacturers recommendations for maintenance on your floor.

After 12 hours your floor should be fully cured. Floor traffic can now resume.

Great cleaning tips and cleaning information by Lee Harris can be found at http://www.monsterjanitorial.com. Lee Harris is an expert in the cleaning industry and can answer all your questions about Floor Finish. Our information is concise and will give anyone basic information about the right cleaning tool for any job. On our cleaning site we also have a cleaning forum where our users can assist each other with their own questions. A cleaning services directory is readily available for cleaning companies to advertise their site by the state in which they are located.

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Of all the natural stones that you can choose for flooring granite is by far the hardest material and the most hardwearing. It is also resistant to staining and acid and alkaline chemicals. This is the reason it is the kitchen worktop of choice and the flooring material of choice.

Despite its hardness it is still capable of being scratched by quartz. Quartz is sand like material which makes up the biggest proportion of dirt brought into a building on the underside of footwear. Traffic going over this then moves the small particles of sand over the surface of the granite causing minute scratches. The scratching effect on granite will be much less than that on marble for instance but non-the-less it still scratches.

This effect can be minimized by the correct maintenance programme. A typical maintenance programme for granite flooring would be to dust mop the floor each day to remove these particles of dirt and once or twice a week depending upon traffic wash the floor with stone soap. This reseals the floor and enhances the colour. This is then wet vacuumed up and the floor then washed with pure water which is also wet vacuumed up. This wet vacuuming prevents the possibility of water staining.

Once per week or once every other week, again depending upon traffic the floor is misted with a crystallising agent and buffed at high speed. This removes the minute scratches and restores the shine to a floor which may be dulling very slightly in areas of high traffic. Then once per year it can be shined using a more abrasive crystallising compound and a slow speed buffer with non-rusting steel wool pads.

If this regime is followed then the shine on the granite floor should last for as long as you require it.

If the floor becomes neglected and is not cleaned correctly then it will slowly become dull and the scratching will build up enhancing the dull effect. If this was a marble floor then the scratching would be greater and could be removed and the shine restored by using diamond grinders on a slow speed buffing machine. However successful re-grinding of granite cannot be achieved. It can be re-ground using the diamond technique and made shiny but quite often it causes a colour change in the granite which is obviously not acceptable to the customer.

This regrinding process which for marble might take about 30 minutes per square meter for granite, being much harder takes about two to three hours to achieve any sort of shine.

In the processing plants marble is ground for about 40 minutes to achieve the high gloss effect. Granite on the other hand will be ground for several hours to achieve the same effect. There is no way that once the granite is in place this process can be replicated.

Consequently if you have a granite floor and it dulls and somebody offers to restore the shine by re-grinding it do not bother. You will end up with a floor that may be shiny but has probably changed colour and it will have cost you a small fortune. Take care of it from the outset and you will never be in this position.

David Andrew Smith is the owner of a commercial and domestic cleaning services company information about stone cleaning can be found at http://www.wesparkle.co.uk/floorcare.html

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Tips on How to Reglaze a Bath Tub By Claire Bowes

Bathtub not looking as good as it should? Are you stuck with one of those outdated colors of the 1970’s? With a few simple preparations and a lot of patience, you can learn how to reglaze a bathtub and save yourself the hassle of buying and installing a new tub.

 Of course, you’ll want to make sure that you work safely. Since refinishing a bathtub involves chemicals, some of which are toxic, make sure that you ventilate the area well before beginning. Also, protect yourself with a ventilator, safety goggles and gloves. Once protected, gather your supplies and get going!

Give your tub a cursory cleaning and remove any loose caulking and gaskets. Most bathtub refinishing kits come with several chemicals. The first two are chemical cleaning solutions that will remove soaps and oils from the surface of the tub and prepare it for the primer. Most kits require you to clean the tub with the first solution, scrubbing the tub with sandpaper, usually 220 or 240 grit.

Once the tub is thoroughly scrubbed, rinse away any residue. The second cleaning solution is applied next, usually with a specially designed cleaning pad that also scores, or roughs, the surface of the tub. This second step removes any remaining oil or soap and also provides “grab” for the primer. Rinse the tub again and dry with an old towel or paper towels.

The third solution in the kit is a primer reducer, a solvent that removes any remaining residue and prepares the surface for the primer. Carefully apply the reducer with paper towels. After this, repair any damage to the tub’s surface and drain area with putty and allow to dry. After about 30 minutes, sand the repaired areas smooth with a fine grit sandpaper, clean with the primer reducer and dry. It is time to mask the area around the bathtub that will not be refinished.

Carefully apply tape and paper to the areas around the tub, burnishing any tape with your fingernail or a credit card to assure a good seal. Next, you’ll apply the base coat to the tub. Remember to wear your respirator for this part of the process, and make sure that your area is properly ventilated.

Following the manufacturer’s directions, mix the primer’s components exactly and use a spray gun to apply to the bathtub. Allow the primer to dry for at least 30 minutes before applying the top coat. Mix the paint for the topcoat following manufacturer’s instructions. Apply the topcoat using the spray gun with even strokes. This topcoat will take about 48-72 hours to completely cure.

Reglazing your bathtub can be a cost effective way to dramatically update your bathroom! Claire Bowes is a successful Webmaster and publisher of Bath Tubs & Bathing. Claire provides more information on her site about Refinishing a Bath Tub that you can research at home.

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